UK highway trip: a Anglo-Scottish border

The Anglo-Scottish limit is a place of furious beauty, with a rich, elegant and bloody history. This is a land of a reivers, extreme clans of brigands who, from a 13th century until a Union of a Crowns in 1603, were to this segment what a Apaches were to a US-Mexican frontier. Carlisle’s Tullie House Museum has an glorious permanent muster about them.

Borders map

On day one, conduct north from Carlisle adult a M6, cranky a limit and take a B721 west to a far-reaching skies and infrequently scary light of the Solway Firth. The Maltings during Annandale Distillery, writer of a really neat singular malt, creates a good stop for a late lunch (soup and a sandwich, including a haggis option, for £8.50) and a cut of blockade and orange cake.

A highway south goes to Ruthwell. This tiny encampment is home to a intricately forged eighth-century Ruthwell Cross, that carries one of a oldest English texts in a world. It’s deliberate one of a biggest examples of Dark Age art in Europe.



Set in mill … a 1,200-year-old Ruthwell Cross on a Solway Firth. Photograph: Alamy

Further along a highway is Caerlaverock Castle, that looks and sounds like a outpost true out of Narnia, and a World Wildfowl Trust wetland bird sanctuary, where, depending on a season, it’s probable to see birds from ospreys to barnacle geese.

From here, loop behind north around Dalton to Lochmaben – where a busted palace is conjectural to have been a hearth of Robert a Bruce – and adult Annandale to Moffat. The Annandale Arms is a town’s oldest hotel, a good place to representation internal lamb and cask-conditioned Broughton ale, brewed a few miles adult a highway towards Biggar, before bedding down for a night (doubles from £116 BB)



Middle-age widespread … Gothic Caerlaverock Castle – a hold of Narnia in Dumfries and Galloway. Photograph: Alamy

On day two, conduct easterly from Moffat past a White Coomb. Between Cappercleuch and Yarrow Feus, circuitously a Gordon Arms hotel, is a right-hand spin that goes south past St Mary’s Loch. Join a B709 and take a outing opposite a corner of Ettrick Forest to Ettrickbridge, before famous as Kirkhope. There’s an considerable pele building only outward a encampment that was built in a late 16th century by Auld Wat Scott, a scandalous reiver best famous for organising a adventurous shun from Carlisle palace of Kinmont Willie Armstrong – an escapade distinguished in one of a many famous Border ballads. Stay a night in a yurt unaware Newburgh Burn (from £150, sleeps six, ettrickvalleyyurts.co.uk)

Next day, conduct south-east, flitting a relic to The Ettrick Shepherd producer James Hogg, and on to Eskdalemuir, a encampment that’s home to Kagyu Samye Ling, a largest Buddhist nunnery and Tibetan centre in a western world. Visitors are acquire and there’s a good Tibetan tearoom.



Kagyu Samye Ling, in a encampment of Eskdalemuir, is a largest Buddhist nunnery and Tibetan centre in a western world. Photograph: Alamy

From here, it’s a brief expostulate to Langholm, where there’s a commemorative to another Border poet, Hugh MacDiarmid, and a widen of wall built by a good Victorian operative Thomas Telford when he was an neophyte in a town. South-east from Langholm, are a Debatable Lands – an area of barren forest between England and Scotland that, for 3 centuries, belonged to conjunction kingdom, and became a breakwater for outlaws.

From this furious country, conduct south into a lushly wooded Eden Valley and a lifelike hull of Lanercost Priory, that also has an glorious tearoom. Follow a highway that runs alongside Hadrian’s Wall to Birdoswald, where there’s a busted Roman fort, a museum and a good domain of a wall to travel along, down to a River Irthing. The cafeteria during circuitously Slack House Farm serves a possess glorious organic Birdoswald cheese. A left spin subsequent to a plantation winds behind into a Debatable Lands and a segment famous as a Bewcastle wastes.



Lanercost Priory, circuitously Hadrians Wall. Photograph: Murdo Macleod for a Guardian

In Bewcastle village, St Cuthbert’s churchyard has a possess forged Anglo-Saxon cross. It was here that a visiting Daniel Defoe remarkable a deficiency of masculine graves, and was told that many of a group in a encampment were buried in Carlisle – where they’d been taken to be hanged. Stay a night during a March Bank Hotel (from £80 BB), once a sport board belonging to a aged Graham family.

On day four, cranky a limit into Scotland again, and conduct adult to Newcastleton and on to Hermitage Castle, a hurt that some-more or reduction defines a tenure “forbidding”, quite on a stormy day (though even in comfortable fever it’s expected to send a shudder down a spine).

In between theft, assault and poetry, a reivers played a lot of football (clan names embody Charlton, Robson and Milburn). View a place where a “first” England v Scotland compare was played by branch right and dropping down into Kielder village. This is a heart of one of Europe’s largest manmade forests, home to red squirrels, goshawks, roe deer and shortly – if naturalists get their approach – a initial race of lynx in a UK for over 600 years. Cross a limit again and spend a night in a former height room during Saughtree Railway Station BB (doubles £75 BB).



Abbotsford, home of Sir Walter Scott from 1812 to 1832. Photograph: Richard Maschmeyer/Robert Harding/Getty Images

On day five, expostulate adult by Hawick, interlude in a city to have a demeanour turn a woollen mills. The panorama around Melrose is gentler and improved tended than a furious domain to a south and west. The grand small city creates a good bottom for dual days of exploring a area. There’s a far-reaching operation of accommodation, including a venerable, if pricey, Burts Hotel (from £140 BB). It’s value popping in for afternoon tea, even if you’re not staying. Among a highlights turn about are Sir Walter Scott’s residence during Abbotsford, a travel in a Eildon Hills, a qualification workshops and brewery during Traquair House and Born in a Borders, where visitors can mix weed tobogganing with solitaire tasting. For food, try a Buccleuch Arms’ Blue Coo Bistrot, where a beef and ale cake will cost £12.50, or a Cross Keys during Ancrum for a Border Reivers burger during £12.

Leaving Melrose, expostulate easterly to a seashore around Allanton, a city of tailors who once sole their things by special windows in their houses. The town’s eponymous pub is a good place for lunch (seafood platter for dual £45).



One of Nanny Sue’s beachside pods, Coldingham

The seashore north of Berwick is spectacular. At St Abbs Head, roost on a corner of a cliffs and demeanour down on hundreds of fulmars, guillemots and razorbills going by their daily routines. Eyemouth is still a bustling fishing pier with a daily indiscriminate market. Giacopazzi’s is a classical Scottish-Italian cafeteria portion top-notch fish and chips and homemade ice-cream.

A small to a north, Coldingham is in a wonderful, easeful cove. Stay a night in one of Nanny Sue’s beachside pod and arise to a sound of a waves (from £50 weekday, breakfast extra).

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Widgetized Section

Go to Admin » appearance » Widgets » and move a widget into Advertise Widget Zone